Sunday, March 27, 2016

COMING FULL CIRCLE

From Shroud Cay we went to Highbourne Cay for a night.  Just anchored outside the harbor.  This was a natural stopping point before continuing to New Providence.  It was the beginning of John’s birthday weekend.  
And they meant it!
John taking in the view from Highbourne
Another Banana Chit kept us company
As we bid goodbye to his 60th year, we found ourselves at the Marina and Resort's upscale watering hole, imagine that!  It was too hot to even hike there which was a shame since others had told us it was a great place to walk and bike around.  All we got in here were a few drinks and a nice dinghy ride.  Left the next day and wanted to go back to that nice marina we had been too before at Palm Cay but they were full.  We should have called earlier.  

Weather was approaching and we needed to get somewhere so our only alternative was to go into Nassau.  We avoided Nassau on the way down as we’ve heard it is a zoo…and they were right!  Took a slip at Yacht Haven Marina for $2/foot per night. 
Pros – big laundry facility, store and awesome bakery not far away, Poop Deck restaurant on site, clean showers.  Cons – lots of wake form boat traffic, surge from the sea, constant activity, just a busy place.  And you need to pay for water, $10/ day which gives you shower privileges but the water pressure at the dock was a trickle, and nasty tasting to boot. 


Tall ship staying at our marina

We stayed here for 4 nights due to high winds and made the best of it.  The good news is that we actually got power at the dock and had air conditioning for the 1st time since we left home.  Nice to dry out the boat and ourselves!  That was nice even if we were constantly rocking.  We got off the boat a lot and walked all over the place.  We had to reprovision and do laundry but the rest of the time we played.  Dined out a few times, hit a brewery and a rum distillery, explored walking the streets, bridges and beaches of the city just taking in all in. 

We went under and over the bridges atop Potter's Cay which is basically the lifeline for the local community.  Ferries dock and disembark from here, the fisherman and conchers all line up to sell their catch, the mail and inter island boats supply here as well as drop off cargo and more.





It is truly the heartbeat of the city whereas downtown is somewhat in decay. They are improving some of the areas closer to where the cruise ships dock but there is a lot of the area that is run down and not so great.  But then you get up on the hill where the distillery is and the museums are and it is kind of a cool area. And if you go further beyond that along the waterfront it opens up into the Junkanoo beach and Cable beach which are both nice.  



Junkanoo Museum


Hand dug 74 foot well
A mass baptism taking pleace on Palm Sunday
 


Junkanoo Beach
 




Cool tiled pictures on street fronts of shops

















The last day we headed over to check out Atlantis Resort and Casino. It really is very well done with big Chihuly sculptures in the casino, a floor to ceiling, wall to wall aquarium and the grounds and waterparks were quite something.  It was worth a walk over the bridge to Paradise Island to check it out.  


And the super yachts, oh my! We have seen a lot of them on this trip but this was the biggest concentration of them yet.  Somehow, John and I got into a secured area where only the mega yacht guests could be and we were able to walk right in front of all these ships.  We obviously slipped through the cracks as when we went to get out, they looked at us like "how did you get in here"?

By the time the winds and seas tamed enough for us to leave, we were more than ready.  At 8AM we got permission from Nassau Harbor Control to leave (everyone has to call on the radio to get permission to move anywhere within the harbor due to all the freighters and cruise ships moving around) and we were outta there. 
Nassau Light

Put up both sails and sailed our way overnight 125 nautical miles, 21 hours all the way back to Bimini.  The weather was such we could have kept going to Florida but we were pretty tired.  We arrived and it was 4AM so rather than enter the harbor at night, we dropped anchor just outside and slept for 4 hours.  There was quite a bit of surge and it was rolly so we were back up at 9 AM and headed into Blue Waters Marina.  Should have gone to sleep but we just stayed up and made a day of it.  Went for a swim, took a walk and it was early to bed for us.

Since we had already spent so much time in Bimini, didn’t feel like there was anything yet to do but we needed to stay another night to wait for a weather window to cross back to Florida.  It was Good Friday and what a big deal Easter weekend is if you are Bahamian.  We knew there were going to be street celebrations but what we DID NOT know is that the LOUD music would go on until 4AM.  And it was that constant thumping bass that goes right through you kind of music – UGG!  Needless to say we got very little sleep, got up at 6:30 AM and were underway by 8:15.  Winds were great, we put up both sails and glided across the Gulf Stream.  Had a much better crossing than on the way over.  Waves were about 2 -3 feet and a SE wind gave Free Bird flight right over to Key Biscayne.  Got in about 5:30 and Floridians were out boating in force!  Wow, lots of boats, people, music, radio chatter, Coast Guard and Harbor Patrol activity – apparently we just traded one zoo for another! 
Our new Miami "zoo" anchorage

At least we were back in the “states” again.  We had applied for and gotten approved for the “Local Boaters Option” so all we had to do to clear customes was call an 800# and check in from our anchorage.  They gave us an authorization number and we were officially back with no more hassle than that.  Highly recommend it to any boater who is leaving the country to take the time to get the permit to do this, it was well worth it!  

The Bahamas portion of our trip is now behind us but we will continue to explore ans seek out new places, people and things as we head home to Fisherman's Village!

Thursday, March 24, 2016

HAWKSBILL AND SHROUD

From Cambridge Cay, we took an unconventional path (John is getting into taking backwaters it seems) and headed north towards Hawksbill Cay.
Ultralights overhead - these islands must be gorgeous from the air!
Molly just being...Molly!

We had heard from several people that Hawksbill was great so we were really looking forward to it.  We found yet another great beach and in to hike we go.  
The trail started out great but faded quickly leaving us wondering which way to turn?  We did see some new animals and decided tomorrow was another day.
Can't get enough of these beaches...
This snail looks like it is made of wood?
This guy had a blue belly!  Saw lots of them here.
Trail when it was good...
The next day John was bound and determined we were going to get to the Loyalist ruins that this island is known for.  The Loyalists (who were loyal to the the British Crown) were peoples who left America and called this island their home and sought refuge here after the American Revolution.  That is what we were trying to hike to yesterday and to give up on.  There is another trail that we could only get to at high tide so we waited and made our appearance onshore accordingly.  It was only a short hike up and we came upn the Russell Ruins.  
John found a hand forged stake
Storage cellar
These conch shells are "really" old

In stark contrast, we watched the helicopter land on this mega yacht anchored nearby.
We had been watching for the elusive and declining White-Tailed Tropicbird. Was so happy to actually spot one!  They are one of the few birds who actually drink saltwater.


Next morning it was time to move to Shroud Cay.  When we got there it was HOT!  We were doing all we could to combat the heat on board and as soon as we got anchored we started covering and tenting Free Bird with anything we could find to shield her from the sun - tarps, sheets, it didn't matter if we looked like the Door County hillbillies (and I think we kind of did), but it was HOT!




Then we got off the boat and took the longest dinghy ride yet, like 5 miles. Friends had told us about taking a ride through a mangrove river and coming out on the ocean side.  It was really cool and unlike anything we had done to date.  I kept praying that the engine didn't die because rowing all the way would not be an option.
Mangrove river
Opening to ocean
 

Awesome bird, still not sure what he is?
 
It was really beautiful!  The tide was rushing in so we parked the dinghy and walked out the sand spit, got in the water and it carried us back in.  Really cool and of course, our faithful Marley got us safely back to Free Bird!