THE ISLAND OF NORTH BIMINI

Tuesday morning brought a few more sailboats into the marina.  The 1^st was Mahi with crew of Carla, Joe and little 4-year old Ethan.  They had crossed the day before like us but did not reach the island until dusk and did not feel safe entering the harbor with dwindling light.  They threw the hook down overnight and came in to the marina about 10AM.  Within an hour another sailboat is headed for our dock.  We were on board Free Bird and I could hear them outside shouting about what slip to take when I saw their headsail RIGHT behind us.  We sprang in to action as we could clearly see that the captain was not in full control of his boat, they had a ton of freeboard and the wind was howling.  Had we not gone up and fended him off he would have hit us for sure.  Everyone helped him get safely into a slip only to find out that they too had crossed from Key Biscayne but they had been motoring for 40 hours.  Yes, FORTY hours.  They somehow got fowled up in the gulf stream, their engine was overheating and they could only go less than 2 knots.  That coupled with incorrect course corrections and they had a really bad time.  Poor people, they were exhausted. 

Look how clear the water is

Notice anything interesting here?

The winds were currently and forecasted to continue to blow hard so we knew we would not be leaving anytime in the next day or two.  Time to explore the island!  Bimini consists of 2 islands, one north and one south.  We are on the North island where most of the population resides.   It was time to get out and check things out so off we go encountering beautiful blue waters and beach.  

The people here are very friendly and most will address you as you walk down the road.  There is the main drag which is King’s Highway, a narrow 2-lane road and Queen’s Highway which is a more residential one lane road.  

King's Highway

There are many heritage kiosks documenting the history of the island along King’s highway.  Ernest Hemingway considered this place his retreat and spent a lot of time here drinking, fishing and he wrote Islands in the Stream here on Bimini. 

In addition, Bimini has a very storied past with everything from slave trading to drug and rum running.  Today it is home to less than 3,000 people and the bulk of the islands is still fairly undeveloped.  However, that being said, on the North end of the island they have put in a terminal landing for cruise ships and Hilton is in the process of developing a new property called Resort World.  There are mixed feelings here among the locals about whether it is a good thing or not.  While it is providing some economic stimulus, it is changing the character of their little island in the stream.

At least half of the traffic on the roads are golf carts here which you can rent from numerous places.  Along our walk we encounterd yet more of the local color.  It is fun to just walk around and get a feel for what this place once was, what it has become and the peoples who habit it.

Sad boat run aground just inside the harbor

Little did I know then I would be back there the next 2 days in a row for more of the same!  Then it was on to the BTC (Bahamas Telecommunication Corporation) office which to try to get a local phone that would work.  Our android pones from home are not GSM compatable and thus cannot be used here but we really felt it is important to have data access if nothing else for weather forecasts.  For $115 we bought a phone with an appropriate SIM card and for another $50 we got 5 gigs of data.  Mission accomplished!

Love the name of this bar!

Back at the marina, a man was walking by and asked if we were the people from the Fish Creek boat.  We said no but we were from the same area and lo and behold this man, also named John, is from Algoma!  Yes, Algoma, our home address as well.  Within a few minutes we determined we had mutual acquaintances and we were off and running.  Here we go with that small world thing again.  John’s wife was here for a conference and he flew over to join her for a few days.  We invited him to come back and bring his wife for docktails.  Had a big crew for docktails and John and Trisha fit right in even though they were boatless. 

Door County crew
John, Sara, Trisha, John, Deb and Steve

We met a couple of boater’s who have been here in Bimini for a month and Irene has been a fountain of information.  She is in the know about people, places and most things Bimini.  She suggested we go down to the Straw Market and look for Sister Jen.  Sister Jen cooks food up at home and goes to the market each day and sells it from the back of her car.  She has several items to choose from and she will put your entrée in a to-go box and then you step to “window #1” as she calls it where her helper will add your sides.  It is a big box of home cooked food for $10. 

Sister Jen

Window #1

There are more conch shacks here than there are restaurants I think.  There are consequently conch piles everywhere!  

We had seen several the day before but the conch salad where we had our rum punch the day looked the best so back to Stuart’s we go.  We walk in and who do we see but John from Algoma!  He had rented a golf cart for the day and was out touring around with another guest from his hotel, Patrick.  I think we spent 2 hours there just chillin’ and splitting a conch salad.  John and I are not much for sushi and if we do it, only do the cooked kind but conch salad consists of raw conch, tomatoes, onion, peppers, garlic salt and lime juice.  Pretty good eats I must say.  We hopped on the back of John’s golf cart and he gave us a ride towards the marina.  On the way we ran into another boater and John picked him up too.  We made a quick pit stop at the barn of the local boat builder, Ansil.  Ansil is somewhat of a legend around these parts. 

He told us the story of when Dr. Martin Luther King was here.  He took Dr. King out on his little boat on numerous occasions, but most memorably the day before he died.  

The next morning brought a girl’s outing.  5 of us went to a local Bahamian restaurant for lunch and then did a little shopping on the way back.  We stopped by Stuart’s conch shack again for a rum punch and Carla bought her husband a conch salad to go. 

Eden, Sara, Deb, Irene and Carla

Went to several little grocery stores and to give you an idea of what things cost here, a box of Triscuits was going for $6.45.  We use US currency here although they do have $ of their own.  Sometimes you will get Bahamian money as change.  We are told that it has a 1:1 value here but if you take it home the exchange you get will be less than favorable.    For that reason we brought a pile of $5’s and $1 so we can provide exact change when making purchases. 

When we returned from our little expedition, I couldn’t believe it but there was yet another Catalina 42 in the slip next to us. 

Catalina convention

Steve and Deb from Outlander spied another Catalina 42 the day before who was anchored in the harbor to our north, S/V White Wings.  Turns out they had met them over in No Name Harbor the week before.  Within a few minutes we ran into Laurie from that boatand introductions were made.  Later that afternoon Laurie and her husband Frank came down to our marina and all 4 Catalina crews were meeting and sharing stories.  What a fun coincendence!

CROSSING DAY

Here's a summary of our crossing day... 

Winds ESE 10 – 15 knots, seas were predicted to be 2 – 3 feet which was down from previous forecast of 2 – 4 with an occasional 5.  Our estimation was that the previous forecast was correct as we know we saw waves bigger that 3.  The wind never did go South enough for us to sail or even put a little bit of genoa so we motored into head seas all day.  At least pitching to and from is better than rolling side to side. 

We left at 5 AM with the crew of S/V Outbound.  It was a great morning to leave as the light of the near full moon helped guide us out of the harbor and past the anchored boats just outside.   Then we got through the markers and out into the Atlantic we go!  

In order to cross over to Bimini Island in the Bahamas, you have to go through the gulf stream.  The gulf stream is basically a big conveyor belt of water sweeping from South to North.  It has an average current of 3 - 5 knots and it moves around, in other words, it is not always in the exact same place.  So when we set our course for our destination we have to take into account the fact that the gulf stream is going to push us North at the same time we are heading East.  It takes a watchful eye and continuing correction through the entire stream to make sure you are going to find the island you are looking for.  The gulf stream is almost 25 miles wide so that is over half of the total distance we needed to travel which was 42 nautical miles. (FYI - the direction the gulf stream travels is why it has taken us so longer to cross it.  The rule of thumb is that you do NOT cross if the wind has the word "north" it in, i.e. northeast, northwest, etc.  If you find yourself in the stream under that kind of circumstance, the wind is opposing the direction of the stream and being there in those waves are said to be like being inside a wash machine.  It is not only unpleasant, but dangerous.  That is why we have been waiting so long as with this El Nino winter, the winds have had a northerly component to them or the window of time where without a north wind was so short, it did not allow for the existing waves to realign before a northely started up again.)

The ride was uneventful in itself but it was definitely a bit rougher than we had hoped for.  Molly just laid on the floor of the cockpit and didn’t move BUT she did not get sick.  In seas of up to 5 feet that is saying something! 

We had a visitor on board briefly as a flying fish landed on deck.  Didn’t get the camera out quick enough to get a shot of him, he was small and continued to flap once he landed and soon he was back in the water again. Other than that all we saw we other pleasure boats, a couple of big mega yachts and lots of container ships!  There was one point where we were navigating in between 2 of them.  John kept saying “oh, he’ll pass in front of us” while I wasn’t so sure.  He changed course just to make me feel better although I am sure he was right.

 We pulled into Bimini and were tied up to the dock by 3:30.  We made it!  Now it was time for the captain to walk to the customs office and get us all checked in.  There is a procedure every boat must follow.  When you enter port you need to have up a yellow courtesy flag high amidships and a flag  showing your country of origin on the stern.  No other passengers or crew can disembark and put foot on foreign soil until you and the boat has been cleared by authorities.  John and Steve (S/V Outbound) walked up  and within minutes were back.  Then we take down the yellow flag and put up the Bahamian flag.  We are official – yay! 

This ie first time we have pulled up to a dock in over 3 weeks.  It felt really good.  Steve and Deb had been to this marina before and it was exactly as the described.  Decent bathrooms, a nice little pool, friendly staff and only $1/foot.  Felt like a place we could call home for a few days for sure. 

Once we were situated and tied up well we just went up to the pool area and had a beer.  Met a few other boaters who were staying at the marina who kind of gave us the scoop on what’s what around here.  All of a sudden there was what sounded like a parade coming.  In fact it was the Junkanoo  Juniors celebrating a recent 1^st place finish at their national music competition in Freeport.  The Junkanoo are school age kids who make incredible music.  I had heard about them from a friend who has been there and we are hoping to catch some of their music before we leave.  They were in the back of trucks playing away with all kinds of other cars following tooting their horns and making merry in general.  They drove past the marina and down to the straw market area.  We walked down to check for places to have dinner as neither Deb not I felt like cooking and the party soon disbanded.  We came to find out that most places are closed on Mondays and we ended up at the Big Game Lodge.  John got some cracked conch which he was happy with and we decided to make it a short night of it as we were all tired and ready to just relax. 

Our next post will have lots more pcitures and details (we have so muc to tell you) but the boat is rocking and Molly is on the move so i need to sign off.  Life is good, enjoy it!

WE MADE IT!

Greetings from Bimini.  This will be short and sweet.  We left Key Biscayne at 5am and arrived Bimini about 3:30.  Our crossing was a bit rougher than we had hoped but have had worse crossings on Lake Michigan.   We are all good and very glad to be here.  That's it for now, more details tomorrow.   I am going to jump in the pool!

FOR BETTER OR FOR WORSE

Greetings and salutations!

We are on our final day here at No Name Harbor and are ready to go.  

Another cool iguana

Well, that's the thing you know, you can't wait to get into a harbor or marina and by the time you leave. you can't wait to get out.

It is a hub-bub of activity here today.  We were warned how crazy weekends get and those folks were not exaggerating.  Lots of spanish being spoken, yelled and sung too.  Between that, the generators running 24/7, the cigar smoke and the dancing, I have to say it has been quite an experience.

We are going to cross to Alice Town on Bimini Island in the Bahamas tomorrow.  We are leaving with S/V Outbound, the other Catalina 42 folks from Fish Creek at about 5AM.  The weather guides all said today was the day but the winds were forecasted to be about 13 from the East which meant we'd not be able to sail at all and would be bucking a headwind the whole way.  Weather shows wind should be about the same as today and come a bit more from the Southeast tomorrow which is why we opted to wait.  Waves are forecasted to be just a bit higher so we opted to take our chances...for better or for worse.  Time will tell.  We will get up at 4AM, give Molly one of her new pills the vet gave us and wait the hour for it to kick in and go.  It is just 42 nautical miles over so hopefully we'll have an uneventful day.

We are heading for Blue Waters Marina and can hopefully shoot out another update once we arrive so you all know we made it safely.  The folks we are travelling with have been there before so it will be nice to be with someone who knows the ropes and the area.

Stay tuned for more from the other side!

WHAT'S THE CHANCE?

We are still hanging out in No Name Harbor here in Key Biscayne.  We have been here before actually with our late friend Brian on his boat Heart of Gold many years ago.  Seems kind of surreal to be here now on Free Bird. 

We were invited over for happy hour to S/V Outbound, Steve and Deb’s boat.  They are from Milwaukee and have a condo in Fish Creek. 

Was nice getting to know them a bit.  They are indeed heading for Bimini too and hopefully we can buddy boat over together.  As of right now we are considering a run Sunday or within a couple of days after that.  We just keep looking at the weather every day and know that eventually our window will open.

First order of the day was to take a walk and see the sights.  As soon as we dinghied in, we saw some man o’war jellyfish swimming nearby.  We must avoid these at all costs as they are one of the poisonous ones!  Guess it's no swimming in the harbor for us.

This harbor is in the middle of Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park and it is really very nice.  They have wonderful trails, pavilions and wildlife abounds everywhere.  We saw so many iguanas running around.  They are really cool to see in the wild.  

The water is so clear here that we could just look down and see gorgeous fish.  There were parrot fish and several others.  

On around the corner stands Cape Florida lighthouse built in 1825 and adjoins a beautiful beach.  

Once we started around the path from the lighthouse we ran into a little raccoon that was so cute.  It was on its hind legs begging for food and reminded me of Molly.  

So we thought it was one little cute racoon, there were actually about 20 of them.  They were everywhere!  Guess they are a standard attraction as many people told us they are here all the time.

One other interesting feature of the area is Stiltsville. 

There are several of these stilts houses out in the harbor and I asked a local who told me there used to be a lot more of them and they were built out there during Prohibition.  Tales go that there were all kinds of not-so-family friendly activities taking place out there.  Over the years hurricanes got most of them and they were taken over by the Park Service.  They told me that some special groups like Cub Scouts and so forth are the only ones allowed to go out to them by special permission.  

Today just brought the monotony of chores, grocery shopping and laundry.  Even though we are on a boat, unfortunately we still have to clean, cook and do the dishes and the laundry.  Wish we had maid’s quarters and could afford to hire one, that would be wonderful!

About an hour ago, another couple in a dinghy came by and said they are from Egg Harbor, another town in our little WI county up North.  So there are currently 3 boats from Door County here in this little harbor of about 20 boats.  What’s the chance of that??? 

We will let you know when we plan to leave to head over to the Bahamas.  Once there, our internet availability will be very spotty so don’t be surprised if you don’t see posts as often once we get there. 

Hope it is a wonderful day in your world wherever this post finds you!

JUST MEANT TO BE?

Yesterday we decided it was time to put Tarpon Basin behind us.  Valentine's Day had brought high winds and although we were anchored securely we processed back and forth and back and forth all day long.  Monday morning brought more wind but we were ready for a change.

With weather predictions for 15 - 20 knot winds we motored away and into Blackwater Sound.  Then into an even larger body of water called Barnes Sound.  It was huge so we threw out the genoa and were flying across the water.  Had to reef as winds picked up to 30 with gusts to 35.  Not exactly what we had in mind.  We pulled off the Intercoastal and just threw out the hook south of Pumpkin Key and relaxed for about an hour and a half.  Then picked it back up and went into Angelfish Creek.  Finally, a calm anchorage even in the winds.  

Molly looking for angelfish

Angelfish Creek is a staging point for jumping over to the Bahamas.  There was already one boat anchored in there.  John went over and asked them if they were going to the Bahamas and they said no. 

We had been considering whether or not to cross today (Tuesday) as it looked like the winds were finally going to be favorable.  We prepared our ditch bag and got other things in order in case we decided to go.  A ditch bag for those of you who don't know is a bag that contains safety items, food, communication devices and so forth that you have ready to go in case you need to abandon your boat.  Every good sailor will always be ready with a ditch bag if it is needed.  We always had one in the Great Lakes and definitely made sure we had a good one ready to go this time.

And then there were the buts...

But, the tide was such that we would have had to leave at 3AM in order to safely exit Angelfish Creek to the Ocean.  There are rock reefs out at the exit that can only be passed at high tide.

But, there were possible thunderstorms in the forecast.

But, we had no buddy boat to cross with.  

So, after battling winds all day Sunday and Monday and throwing in all the "buts", we decided this was NOT going to be our window to go.  As it turned out, we did get a thunderstorm and Miami in fact experienced 5 tornados that were not forecasted at all.  All in all we are glad we held off.  

Angry sky means no go

Instead we waited for the storm to pass and headed North towards Miami.  We called every marina between Key Largo and Miami trying to find a slip and every single one was FULL.   There were some that we couldn't get into due to depth but we called at least 6 and could not believe we could not find a slip anywhere, regardless of price.

Well, all's well that ends well as we are now sitting at anchor in No Name Harbor in Key Biscayne.  Just got in at 4:30 and luckily found a spot.  This is just a fraction of the size of Marathon.  Only about 20 boats in here and not room for many more.  

Yet another awesome sunset

John went in to pay and came upon a boater's happy hour.  Within minutes he met another couple with the same boat we have, a Catalina 42, who is from Wisconsin, with a 2nd home in Door County (where we live) and they are going to the Bahamas.  Looking forward to talking to them more tomorrow but we may have just found our buddy boat.  Perhaps it was all just meant to be...

BACK ON THE MOVE

Friday night brought us yet another beautiful sunset. 

That being said, after 10 days here we were more than ready to depart.  Saturday morning at 7am, we pulled up anchor and headed out.  We took advantage of the North wind and sailed genoa only about 17 miles to the next bridge that we could get Free Bird under just north of Long Key.  The 1st thing we encountered was like 10 times as many crab pots as we have been seeing.  They dotted the waters in every direction.  We headed just north of the Everglades Park boundary and all the pots disappeared. 

What a relief as it is hard to continually steer around them and hold to your course.  Makes for a tired crew if you have to do it for hours on end.

We had not previously considered coming "back inside" to the ICW as we thought it too shallow for our 4'10 draft.  Draft for those who don't know is how much of Free Bird sits below the water.  So with a 4'10 draft we need at least 5' to pass safely and that's cutting it a bit too close.  There are also tides to consider inside although they are not as big as on the ocean side.   We met some other boaters who told us we should be able to do it and sent a few emails to others we know who have been this way and got some advice.  We were hitting the first of the "skinny" parts approaching high tide which gave us a little extra cushion.  Have no doubt though, there is some shallow water here! 

See the shallow water, the colors are telling...

There were some narrow passages too.

We pulled into Tarpon Basin at Key Largo about 4:00 and were just darn glad to be there.  Towards the end of our run, the tide was going back down and we were getting a bit nervous that we would run aground.  

Woke up this morning to yet more wind and decided to just stay put for the day. Made another grocery store run and tomorrow we'll push on at high tide to Angelfish Creek.  Then we will watch the weather and decide whether or not we can cross to the Bahamas on Tuesday or continue on to Miami.

HOLDING PATTERN

Well you may be wondering why you have not seen a post recently.  We are alive and well however we have been living in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, FL for over a week now.  The winds just keep blowing from the wrong direction so we are just biding our time and trying to get used to life living at anchor.   We are adapting to life on the hook as best we can although it is a little confining as everything is a dinghy ride or more away.   We have enjoyed the lovely sunrises and sunsets, manatees roaming the harbor, some nice saxaphone playing at cocktail hour courtesy of someone on the boat Windancer and meeting other cruisers.  We get out and walk every day and always seem to find something new and different.  We are keeping busy just keeping up with cleaning and maintenance and studying the weather too.  All in all, life could definitely be worse!

Beautiful reflections

Momma and baby manatees right next to our boat

Another pastel sky

Almost stopped for a game of chess

You don't see an ambulance like this up North

Every morning there is a cruiser's net broadcast on radio channel 68 at 9 am. They have incoming, outgoing boats, general announcements, boats who need help, buy/sell/trade, trivia and then final business.  It is kind of neat.  They run these in many larger anchorage areas like this but it is the first time I have heard one, let alone particpated.  It gives you a clue as to what is happening locally and almost every plea for help whether it is a tow for a dinghy, fixing a steeringnsystem or help going up your mast is answered almost immediately. There are characters here but also a real sense of community.

John and I took a dingy ride to Sombrero Beach on Monday and walked the beach.  It was a nice day and in retrospect we probably should have moved North but the winds were supposed to pick up again from the wrong direction the following day, which indeed they did.  

We took a little trip to Key West one day with the crews of  Sea Pearl and Cool Runnings.  Left the boats about 7:30AM and headed for the bus stop.  The price was right, it was a total of $5.50 for John and I one way.  It only took a little over an hour and we immediately went to the wharf.  Had a spot of breakfast and it was off to Duvall Street.  

Made a few stops at various establishments but kept it pretty tame.  Gary insisted we go to the Garden of Eden but it was too early for the "regular" crowd and we didn't get to see anything shocking!  Before we knew it, it was time to try to find a bus stop and catch the Northbound.  That in itself was quite an experience.  We had to quit drinking liquid of any kind an hour in advance as it was a 2 hour ride home and we knew there would be no potty stops.  Sure was an interesting ride.  It was crowded and people were standing.  Met some other land cruisers and had a few laughs despite the length of the ride.  It was dark and we were all pooped by the time we got back to the boats but a day well spent.

Winds continue to be from the wrong direction to move north to stage for a Bahamas crossing and alas our little floatilla will be parting ways.  The other 2 boats travelling with us have decided to abandon their plan to go to the Bahamas.  They have had their fill of sitting at anchor and have reserved slips at Stock Island Marina near Key West for a month and pulled out this morning. We wish our friends all the best, we will miss them!

John and I are not giving up the hope that we will get a weather window and eventually be able to cross to the Bahamas.  Worst case, we will travel up the East coast a bit to Miami and check that out since we have not traversed those waters before.  There are plenty of folks here waiting to go to the Bahamas too so picking up another Buddy boat won't be a problem.  There is a list in the lounge here of folks waiting to go.  Can't get it to show right but here it is.

So, our plan for now is to continue holding here but we are anxious to be underway somewhere sometime soon.  In the meantime, we'll embrace what we have here and keep on smiling!  Happy Valentines Day to you all.  Love the crew of Free Bird!